It was a lifetime ambition to visit the legendary Munich Beer Festival in Bavaria. Properly known as the Octoberfest it runs annually for 21 days from mid September into early October. It was decided many years ago to start the festival earlier than October due to the better weather conditions but the festival would still be known as the Octoberfest.
I had planned for a crew of between six and ten to take over but in the end it was down to Harry and myself. The flights were reasonably priced at £160 which would take us via Schippol Airport in Amsterdam. After boarding a train from Cupar to Edinburgh we waited outside Haymarket for a bus to the Airport. After paying the driver we sat back thinking so far so good. The journey seemed to be taking an age also we didn't recognise our surroundings and the Airport never seemed to be coming into focus. A little bit concerned we asked the driver if we were getting close to which he answered that we were already past it and now we had arrived in Kirkliston about 4 miles past the Airport. This was not a good start and with the weather very hot it was an unpleasent walk which took us well over an hour to reach our destination. We had plenty time though as i usually plan against any unexpected delay and after arriving covered in sweat we eventually boarded our plane to take us to Amsterdam.
The plane arrived in time and as we had a 4 hour wait till the flight to Munich we had a few Amstel beers which incidently is the official beer of the Champions League. Unfortunately this flight would be delayed but as a kiosk inside the departure lounge served alcohol this was no great problem. There was a mixure of nationalities waiting about for this flight to Munich and they all seemed to be heading for the Octoberfest. We had a drink with a group of Swedes who were great fun until we finally got underway where we arrived at Munich Airport about Midnight.
After checking out we hailed a taxi and give him directions to our hotel. When we arrived the owner although agreeing we had the correct reservation details said bafflingly that he had a phone call to state we weren't coming. This seemed incredulous and as he made a few phone calls to places nearby to fix us up with accommodation the penny dropped, he had thought we weren't coming and gave our room away. This was more evident when he paid for the taxi to take us to another hotel which we didn't have to pay for. Next morning we had to find our other hotel which i had booked for 3 nights. The plan was to take a tram or bus to this hotel which is situated in Underscheisen (northern Munich). After walking and asking people which public transport to use and where to go for it for about 2 hours to which one local nutter shouted loudly "ah this is Munchen Munchen Munchen" we just gave up and got a taxi. Once we checked in (and no problem here) the receptionist sold us a rail ticket and gave us simple instructions to get the train where the platform is only 2 minutes away to take us to the Ocktoberfest. This we did and although we were on the wrong side of the platform originally we corrected this and successfully reached our goal.
The Octoberfest is staggering in terms of size and people. The first day it attracted 1.9 million a fair size bigger than many major European Cities. The sheer scale of it is mind boggling and the locals take it very seriously. There are 14 tents and each tent has a capacity of around 9000 and a lot are completely packed out each day at noon. There is a massive fairground featuring hundreds of stalls serving typical German food including bratt wurst sausages and saurkraut to standard Brittish and American food. On the way into the festival there are many horse and carts that line the street with everyone in a period time Octoberfest costume creating a nostalic and magical type atmosphere. The first tent we frequented was the Hippodrome with a seated indoor capacity of 6500 and outside 2500. We arrived about 12 noon and as you cant get served without a seat we endeavoured to find one. Walking along the front with all seats seemingly taken a big mighty roar greeted us and looking around perplexed we wondered (what the hell is this!). It was not reserved for us though but for the band who were walking right towards us on the way to the main stage where they are treated like real heroes with everyone acclaiming their presence. Told unceremoniously to get out of the way to let their idols past we eventually found two seats at the back where we were served by a gorgeous fraulein who took our order. The waitresses in general there were stunning all dressesd up in sexy uniforms and with a eagerness to please unlike many back home with a lucklusture couldn't careless attitude. This whole experience was like a culture shock to us as we began drinking from the heavy one litre stein glasses. Our first beer was Spartenbrau which was okay but a bit fruity on the palate before we ventured out to another tent. We met some Canadians in the next one where we drank Lowenbrau and we all marvelled at the frauleins who all seemed to be able to carry ten full steins of beer to thirsty customers awaiting their order. We checked out another tent but by this time they were all jam packed now with large queues forming outside waiting for people to leave to get in. In the search for more drink we spotted a revolving bar that slowly moved round just like a merry go round where we consumed numerous schnappes. We then decided to have a go on some of the fairground rides which included the roller coaster where my hat fell off and the slowest big wheel i have ever witnessed before finally spotting seats in another tent where we duly sat down and ordered some beer which was Hacker Porche. Harry had bought earlier a souvenir which he named Dick his beer mascot and he brought it out onto the table we were sharing with some young freindly locals. We swapped stories and helped smoke the large cigar that was being passed round as well as having more to drink. At closing time both of us were worse for wear and as i made my way back from the toilet to our seats Harry had vanished into the night and as hard as i tried i had no success in finding him. For situations like this a mobile phone is a godsend amongst thousands of people unfortunately Harry's phone had no credit left and everytime i tried to ring it went on answer machine mode. I ended up at some pub with people i had spoken too then got a taxi back to hotel.
The next morning and still no sign of Harry with his phone still off. This was the Saturday and we had tickets for the Bayern Munich game at the Alliance Arena v Alemenia Aachen. I decided to catch the train to the entrance of the Octoberfest in a forlorn hope that Harry might be there but he wasn't so i asked people the public transport i needed to get to the game. Most people i spoke to had a very limited knowledge of English and i really struggled but managed to get there in the end by getting of a train to Marionplatz before using the underground to the stadium. I then received a phone call from a German taxi driver telling me he had Harry and he wanted to know the hotel we were staying at so he could take him there. Harry had been walking the streets all night with no idea of what our hotel was called or even the area it was situated in. In a state of panic as all his belongings were in the hotel including match ticket, passport etc and with his phone out of credit he tried the Police Station where they told him abruptly that this was no hotel. Eventually about noon next day after explaining his predicament to a taxi driver they went to a phone box (he tried earlier to use one but couldn't understand it) and dialled my mobile. After the taxi dropped him off Harry got his match ticket and it was to be another taxi to the stadium where i would eventually meet him at kick-off time 3.30pm.
The Alliance Areana is a newly built super Stadium built for the World Cup just past and what a glorious sight it beholds. The locals have dubbed it rubber dingy as it resembles a boat from afar. Been to many a great stadium over the years including the Amsterdam Arena, Old Trafford, Selhurst Park, Ibrox and the Millennium in Cardiff with this right up there with the best. The atmosphere was excellent where a near capacity crowd witnessed a 2-1 victory for the hosts despite losing the first goal with well taken goals from Pizero and Van Bommel. The visiting team and their supporters did themselves proud by playing attacking football and singing throughout the whole game. After the match we hoped on the underground that took us back to Marionplatz which seems to be the focal point of the city with towering ancient buildings, littered with bars, shops and festival activities. We spotted an international bank where we took this opportunity to use our bank cards to withdraw much needed Euros to our already dwindling supply. After the previous excesses of the night before none of us were really in the mood for serious drinking so we only had a couple of Furstenburg beers and walked round the Ocktoberfest site which i would say is ten times bigger than the Links Market before getting a train back to our hotel. Although we stood at the right platform heading back up north to our accommodation i soon realised after a while we were not on the right train. The train system can be confusing especially with everything in Gerrman (well to us at least) where the trains are on specific routes (S1 to S8). Once i understood it was no bother very much like the London underground so we had to vacate our train at the next platform and wait till the next one came in to take us back South before we were able to go North again but on the correct route which in this instance was S8.
On Sunday we were up early and headed down for the beer fest again. Just like the World Cup people of all nationalities come along for this truly spectacular festival in which the Germans are extremely proud and their kind hospitality to foreigners is exceptional. Although the Germans can be perceived as arrogant and abnoxious (this can be true towards the English or the Dutch) they made us feel very welcome to share in their magnificent party. After many steins later it was my turn to get lost and after trying to find Harry discovered he had taken a taxi back to the hotel. Not like me to do anything stupid but when i was approached by someone wanting to use my mobile i duly obliged then watched stunned as he sprinted away with it.
Next day we made our way to the Airport but as we were checking out our hotel we got billed for 52 Euros from our room bar which is extortionate considering we only drank 2 bottles of soft drinks each. I think they must have billed us for the contents of the whole fridge which is i guess is a salutary lesson for the future because if you take 1 drink then you might as well take the whole bloody lot as you will still be billed for it. Not at our most mentally alert with it being early and probably with a few less brain cells, destroyed by the over indulgence of alcohol over the previous 3 days we proceeded to be searched up at the departure lounge before we had even checked in to receive our boarding pass. We then got lost inside the airport and wandered aimlessly about to get back to the check in desk where we even stumbled into a prohibited access area. Still we got there in the end but after arriving back in Edinburgh our luggage seemed to be missing (signal the alarm bells). We then realised there were two conveyor belts with luggage going through and we were waiting for the stuff from Spain. With our luggage safely located we thought we would get the duty-free but alas we were too late and another of our plans was up in smoke. Then to make matters worse we couldn't find the exit and had to ask a rather bewildered member of staff who pointed us in the right direction. Back into the centre of Edinburgh i bought an updated version of my stolen phone where i could still keep the same number which seemed a bit strange but was assured by the salesman that it was fine. We then finished of the journey with the train back to Cupar to end our eventful but enjoyable (apart from losing the phone) trip to the Munich Beer Festival.
